Where Is The Serial Number On A Suzuki Quadrunner

This article does not any. Unsourced material may be challenged and.Find sources: – ( December 2014) The LT250R was a sport manufactured between 1985 and 1992. It combined a lightweight frame and good handling, with a liquid cooled 250cc two-stroke.Commonly known as the Quadracer, it revolutionized the (ATV industry). Before this model was released, the ATV world was dominated by three-wheelers. Although the four-stroke LT250E Quadrunner was released a year earlier, it was not well accepted by racing enthusiasts that were hesitant to adopt the heavier four-wheelers over their three-wheelers. Then came the LT250R.Most of the advances made by Suzuki with this quad have been overshadowed by the TRX250R, which was released in 1986. During these early years though, they were treated as equals, with the Honda being preferred by most because of its apparent handling characteristics.

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Even though both model names ended with '250R', the Honda walked away with the nickname.The LT250R setup is what is commonly used in today's sport quads, such as:. 2-wheel rear drive with a solid axle. 'A-Arm' front suspension. Powerful lightweight engine.

Manual and clutch. Hydraulic disc brakes, two in front, one for the rear. Chain drive. Contents.1985 In an apparent attention to weight by engineers, it came with many parts: swing arm, rear axle carrier, engine cases, front spindles, rear shock link. But the overall advantage in weight (compared to most other quads) is the simplicity of design.

The '85 and '86 Quadracers are known as the lightest production full size race quads ever built, tipping the scales at only 293 lbs dry making them similar to the 250cc two stroke race three wheelers of that era. This section needs expansion. You can help. ( February 2009)'The beaner year', many different changes occurred within this production year, sometimes making parts hard to match up.The major changes were in the frame, engine, swingarm, and a-arms.

The most visible change is in the frame right in front of the cylinder the 85-86 frame has a single down bar, but the '87+ has a single wishbone down-tube. The 85-86 exhaust goes out the side of the cylinder and the '87+ goes straight out the front in between the split downbar, hence the head pipe design changed for '87+. For '87+, a head motor mount was added and connects the engine to the backbone of the frame (under tank). The 85-86 is also a non powervalved motor as the '87+ have powervalves. The front shocks are also about 3' longer than previous models. The air intake from the carburetor to the cylinder is in a 5 bolt pattern and larger than the other years providing more air flow. Hence, the 87's are desired by tuners and racers for the larger base air flow.

Suzuki Atv Vin Number Lookup

The 1987-on LT250R and the LT250R's big brother, the LT500R or Quadzilla, used the 5-bolt intake design. Also the '87+ used a 6 speed transmission instead of the 5 speed used on the 85-86 models. The engine color was changed from silver used on the 85-86 models to blue for the '87+ models.For the '87+ model, the swingarm design was changed to a more 'beefy' design after cracking / breaking issues with the 85-86 swingarm design. Clearly, the Suzuki engineers underestimated how hard their customers could ride their product. However, the '87+ swingarm will mount to the 85-86 frame with some other minor equipment swap (i.e. Rear shock, link). The '87+ rear axle carrier includes forward-reverse slide chain tensioning rather than the 85-86's rotary tensioning method.

The '87+ carrier housing slides forward and reverse and then is held in place by four vertical bolts and two rear horizontal bolts whereas the 85-86 carrier was held with a clamp or pinch design.The '87 and '88 rear axles continued to have 24 splines axles that were the same as the 85-86 models. In '89, this was changed to a 26 spline axle similar to the LT500R. The hubs on the 1987 models went to a 5/130 bolt pattern similar to the LT500R). This was in contrast to the 4/130 bolt pattern of 85-86. The front fenders are the same and will swap between any year. The rear fenders will swap between any year, but the '91 and '92 model years were different under the seat in order to access the air filter which was relocated due to the redesign of the rear suspension. The '91 and '92 rear plastic actually has a curved metal bar riveted under the seat to help support the plastic due to the larger void in the plastic moulding necessary to access the air filter.

(Note that the original rear plastic for '85 - '90 is no longer available from Suzuki. All new rear plastic is the '91-92 style with the riveted bar under the seat.)The seats changed drastically in '87. They flare out at the rear (like a 'T') while the 85-86 has a straight seat.

There are also some cosmetic differences between the seats of various years. '85 had yellow hollow letters spelling 'Suzuki' on the sides.

In '86, they changed these letters to white. On the 'T' seat in '89, they added the words 'QuadRacer' to the back in white letters.

Unfortunately I didn't notice some of the rust hitting the undercarriage of my 2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660, but saw it the other day when I was doing some maintenance, oil change, air filter, spark plug, etc. The left side footrest broke and that's causing the plastic to hit the front wheel. It broke right at the welds from too much rust. Looks to me like what I need is (looked this up on yamahapartshouse.com):YAMAHA FOOTREST BOARD 5KM-27481-10 Left side (broken)YAMAHA FOOTREST BOARD 5KM-27488-10-00 Right side (rusted and will probably break eventually)Does anyone have a less expensive source? I did see on ebay a couple of listings but it still comes out to @ $50 each,. Looking for Polaris ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Polaris ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available.

The best ones are backed by the Polaris ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Polaris ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply.The following Polaris ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:KBB.com Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theftandfraudawareness/vincheck. Looking for Honda ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Honda ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available. The best ones are backed by the Honda ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Honda ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply.The following Honda ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:KBB.com Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theftandfraudawareness/vincheck.

Looking for Yamaha ATV VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) Number Decoders? Once you find your ATV VIN number off the tag on your Yamaha ATV, you can go to all kinds of websites that have VIN Decoders available.

The best ones are backed by the Yamaha ATV manufacturer, however there are plenty of aftermarket Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites on the web. This topic will stay pinned and if you find any to add, please do it with a reply.The following Yamaha ATV VIN Decoder websites are available where you can just enter your VIN number and it will shows you some of your ATV model details:KBB.com Theft Check https://www.nicb.org/theftandfraudawareness/vincheck. These are what i have in my collection.

As stated above working on a 1999 Suzuki LT-F160. I think I’m having trouble with the carburetor. I keep fouling spark plugs. Full disclosure, I did make a poor attempt to “rebuild” the carb (that’s why I think that’s the issue). No idea if the new parts are at the correct “settings” (gaps and such) I believe the starting point is 1.5 turns from bottom out on the adjustment screw (is there another adjustment I don’t know of?).

Doesn’t feel like I’m getting gas drawn through the carb (clogged jet maybe?), the plug isn’t wet at all (assuming why they’re fouling?) Not a great deal of experience working on carbs and not having much luck on finding a lot of info on the 160’s.1st- by chance can I swap out the original carb (13200-02C03) for an LT 250 model (think the HA01050). They’re only about $30 apposed to $200. That would at least narrow down if it’s a wiring problem or carb issue.2nd - The wiring has been minipulated at least a dozen times (before I acquired it, my cousin got it from a buddy kind of thing).

Hopefully don’t have to dig into this too much as it’s currently a bit if a mess.I was told it ran last year.Any imput would be greatly appreciated.Recently Browsing0 members.